During periods of high prices, some companies absorb part of the impact, while others adjust their catalogue prices. There are also those who silently alter the raw material of their collections: pieces previously produced in sterling silver or solid gold start using base metals coated with a thin golden or silver layer. At first glance, both appear to have similar quality, but their performance over time diverges significantly.
Solid vs. Plated: Differences the Finish Can’t Hide
Precious metals, such as 14k or 18k gold and 925 sterling silver, are durable. They can be polished, repaired, resized, and even melted down again, maintaining resale value. These materials age gradually: gold preserves its color and integrity for decades; silver acquires a natural patina without compromising its structure.
Plated jewelry, on the other hand, uses a base of brass or other non-noble metals covered by gold or silver in thicknesses ranging typically between 0.1 and 2 microns. This finish is superficial. In rings, bracelets, and necklaces—pieces subjected to constant friction—the layer wears off quickly, exposing the inferior metal beneath. When this occurs, besides aesthetic loss, allergic reactions may arise, especially if nickel is present in the alloy.
Another limitation of plated items is maintenance. Unlike solid alloys, items with thin coatings are rarely repolished or resized without high costs and temporary results. In practice, a large portion ends up discarded after a short period of use, reducing cost-effectiveness for the consumer and increasing non-recyclable waste.
Redefining “Affordable Jewelry” in a High-Price Market
With the appreciation of precious metals, the price tier for “affordable” jewelry has shifted.
Sterling silver remains the most viable entry-level option: it offers resistance, repairability, and a lower price than gold, maintaining essential characteristics of a long-lasting piece.
Solid gold, despite requiring a higher investment, presents additional advantages: it does not oxidize, sustains its shine for decades, and holds intrinsic value.
For those seeking the gold look, smaller or delicate designs in 14 karats can balance cost and durability, as this alloy exhibits good resistance to scratches and intense color. Pieces in “gold filled” or “vermeil”, when manufactured within adequate thickness standards (minimum of 2.5 microns in the case of vermeil), represent an intermediate alternative: they do not reach the longevity of solid gold but surpass common plating.
Criteria for Making an Informed Jewelry Purchase
Transparency regarding composition is a decisive point. Committed brands tend to specify the metal type, purity level, and plating thickness. Generic terms like “gold jewelry” or “gold finish” can hide important details. If the description does not clarify the alloy used, the advice is to question it or look for another supplier.
It is also recommended to consider the purpose of the piece. Items for daily use—especially rings and bracelets—require more resistant materials; earrings used sporadically can support less robust options. Evaluating the possibility of future repair is another criterion. Jewelry made of precious metals is generally solderable and polishable, prolonging its lifespan and justifying the initial investment.
An Independent Designer’s Perspective: Value Over Cutting Corners
At Simone Walsh’s studio, located on the Fleurieu Peninsula in South Australia, the decision was to maintain production in sterling silver and solid gold, with the occasional inclusion of pieces in vermeil or gold filled.
According to the designer, adopting lower-quality alloys to reduce prices would compromise consumer trust and business sustainability. This strategy implies higher final values but ensures that each piece of jewelry can be restored, worn for years, and, if necessary, recycled.
The current scenario evidences that the material is just as relevant as the design. Knowing a jewelry piece’s composition allows comparing products beyond visual appearance, balancing usage expectations, budget, and durability. Even with market fluctuations, pieces crafted with precious metals remain an investment in tangible value and a prolonged usage experience—a characteristic that thin plating cannot replicate.
Image Credit: Jewellery Blog
